Preparation |
Measure, Mark & Cut Plywood pieces |
1/2" Plywood Bottom Cut to 23 3/4" W x 36" L |
1/4" Plywood Top Cut to 24" W x 36 1/2" L to overlap back and side edges |
1/4" Plywood Back Cut to 19 " H x 36" W |
1/4" Plywood Sides Cut to 19 " H x 24" W |
Sand edges with 150 until smooth then sand surfaces with 220 until smooth |
Make Bottom |
In order to make the top fit flush with the sides and back, the easiest thing to do is make the bottom just slightly smaller so that the back piece will cover the bottoms edge and the side pieces will cover the edges of the back piece. You dont have to do it this way but it makes it a bit easier to assemble. You just have to remember to account for the thickness of the wood so that the edges overlap and cover each other. Another option is the have the top fit between the back and sides instead of overlapping |
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Cut the 1x2 piece of wood, mitering the corners to form a rectangle slightly smaller than the bottom, leaving 3 to 4 inches space to the outer edges. You will need 2 pieces 30" long on the outer edge and 2 pieces 18" long on the outer edge mitering the corners at 45º.
Fit the pieces together on the bottom so that they are positioned evenly to form a rectangle. Flip each piece up one at a time and run a squiggley line of glue down the middle of it and press back into place. When all 4 pieces are glued into position, nail them into place with 1" finish nails using one in each corner and middles. |
Attach Back and Sides |
If you have a crate or box about 2 ft high, set up the bottom so that it is vertical and the back edge is facing upward. Lay the back piece of plywood flat on the crate so that the bottom edge meets the back edge of the base you built to form a 90º angle. It’s always good the check your alignment with a square first, then run a bead of glue across the top edge of the base and lay the back piece on it so that the edge lines up with bottom and nail into place with 3/4" or 1” or nails. Now the back is attached to the bottom at a right angle.
Remember to be very careful with the 1/4" Sandeply, it is very thin and the nails will pull through easily if flexed too much. |
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Carefully flip the two attached pieces up on end to attach the side pieces being. Line the side pieces up so they are the same height as the back and so the back edges of the sides are flush with the back piece. Again, glue along the bottom edge and nail into place with 3/4" or 1” nails on the ends and middle and again between them. |
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Since we are working with 1/4" plywood, we need to provide some support in order to attach the top and reinforce the structure. I have done this a couple of different ways and this one seems to be easier and faster. |
Cut a piece of 1x2 and a piece of 1/2"x 3/4" to 36" to make the bottom track and door stop. Place the 1/2"x 3/4" piece tall ways, 1/4" below the top edge of the 1x2 directly behind it, glue and nail them both of them in place. You may have to flip the cage up on its side and nail through the bottom of the 1x2. This is going to be the 1/2" wide track and bottom door stop.
Now we need to build the framework to support the top. If you don't have a nail gun, you may want to build the top with framework separately. |
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Cut another piece of 1x2 at 36" long to be the top door stop. This needs to be positioned directly above the bottom one so it may be easier to tack it into place with nails through the sides so that you can measure for the other pieces easier. Be sure to leave 1/2" space from the front for the doors.
Using the 1/2"x3/4" pine trim, measure and cut a back piece and two side pieces mitering the back corners if desired. Glue and nail into place with small brads. |
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Now it's time to fasten the top of the enclosure to the framework. Run a bead of glue all the way around the top of the framework and lay the top piece in place. Nail around the edges with small brads to secure.
For a clean, smooth finish, use a punch to recess the nails as you go then fill them with wood putty and sand smooth. |
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Now measure the vertical space between the upper and lower door stops and cut a piece of 1/2"x 3/4"for each side. Glue and nail in place with a couple of small brads, nailing from the outside.
In order to attach the top front trim piece, cut a couple of small pieces of 1/2"x 3/4" trim about 1" long, then glue and nail one in each upper corner.
To measure for the doors, measure the distance from the bottom track to about 1/4" above the the upper door stop edge. You want to leave enough space at the top to be able to slide the door up and pull the bottom out to remove it when needed. |
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Measure the width of the enclosure from outside edge to outside edge. This should be right around 36 1/2". This is the length you will want to cut the 1/4" x 1 1/2" pine lattice for the upper and lower front trim pieces. After cutting them, sand them so they are nice and smooth. Before attaching the trim permanently, make sure the doors are going to fit properly. |
Cut holes for vents in sides, back and top using a sabre saw and hole saw. If you use a dome for a basking bulb or mercury vapor, a roto zip with circle adapter or sabre saw works best. For oval soffit vents, I cut off the tabs and push into cardboard to make a traceable pattern. Side vents seem to work better close to the top by letting the heat escape. |
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Cutting plexiglass is tricky and messy so be sure to wear eye protection. Tape top and bottom along where your cuts will be made with masking tape then mark with a sharpie. When cutting, it needs to be well supported on both sides of the cut. Put two boards side by side with a space between them where you'll be cutting and sandwich the plexi on both sides with 1x's and clamps to prevent any flexing. Cut with a sabre saw and fine tooth metal cutting blade, a mini circular saw with fine tooth paneling blade. For best results, use a straight edge as a guide instead of following a drawn line. Sand and/or flame edges with a torch to smooth. |
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If you are using a deep dome with a mercury vapor bulb, here's a way to recess it into the top so that you can get the right distance. Cut your hole slightly bigger than the outer edge of the dome and build a set of brackets for it to sit on. |
When you are finished with everything, make sure all your nail holes are filled with putty and sand everything with 220 sandpaper until smooth so that you can apply the finish.
Before applying the polyurethane, be sure to wipe all surfaces clean of debris using a tack cloth or rag with mineral spirits on it. I always shop vac and use the compressor to blow it out before wiping it down too.
Using a foam brush or paint pad apply polyurethane starting with the inside bottom since it will have the most coats. The first coat will be the heaviest since the wood will soak most of it in. Allow to dry overnight and sand all surfaces with 220 or 320. Wipe clean and apply a thin second coat also allowing to dry overnight. At this point you can decide if you want to apply a third coat on the outside or not. I always apply a third coat on the complete inside, then a fourth or fifth on the inside bottom until it is super smooth and easy to clean.
Allow to dry at least 10 days to two weeks. Applying thin coats will help shorten drying time. |
